It succeeds fitfully at both efforts, but mostly in a very Hollywood way.

Conceived by, of all people, Steve Martin, "Traitor'' was scripted by and is the directorial debut of "Day After Tomorrow'' screenwriter Jeffrey Nachmanoff. Though too complicated for its own good, this story is generally more credible than the cartoonish environmental disaster movie's plot.

Until it isn't anymore. One of "Traitor's'' crucial flaws is a climactic payoff that, if worked out better, would have been very cool. But as presented, it makes you leave the theater asking, rather loudly, "How on Earth could they have possibly pulled that off?''

Also, Don Cheadle – a fine actor who does everything right in the film's very challenging lead role – is a bit miscast.

Cheadle, a producer on the film, plays Samir Horn, a Sudan-born U.S. undercover superspy who seems to have followed his Muslim faith into and joined Middle Eastern terrorists. Running guns in Yemen, bombing consulates in Marseilles, Horn has evidently become a real threat to national security.

FBI agents Roy Clayton (Guy Pearce) and Max Archer (Neil McDonough) try to stay hot on his elusive trail, but Horn is too good to be caught. And he's planning some major strike within the U.S. for the equally hard-to-find head of a major terrorist cabal.

Cheadle does a good job of projecting the conflict between Horn's faith and the bloody deeds his mission requires him to perform. He exudes capability, endurance and intelligence, not to mention some much-needed compassion and a degree of cunning.

But a tough-as-nails idealogue and professional killer? Great an actor as he is, Mr. "Hotel Rwanda'' just can't totally shake his fundamental, decent-guy vibe.

Shot economically in five countries on three continents, "Traitor'' looks great and has an epic sweep that sometimes borders on the ridiculous. (The sheer number of new location ID subtitles eventually evokes chuckles.)

For the most part, though, Nachmanoff keeps things moving at such a brisk pace, you don't really have much time to snicker, or to question plot inconsistencies.

Until that last one, unfortunately.

Upscale dining experience, large selection of appetizers and entrees inspired by fresh, local products. The wild mushroom fettucini was delicious!

"You're a vegetarian? What are you going to eat at a steakhouse?!?"

The salads. The sides. It's enough, truly it is when the food is this good! I had a roasted beet salad to start, plus lots of broccolini and mashed potatoes.

We didn't have dessert, but a nearby party had a cotton candy confection that looked very blue and fun!